Basic Info Corn snakes are one of the most common and popular pet snakes in the US today. The main reasons for this are their relatively docile nature, ease of care and manageable size. Corn snakes will generally reach an adult size of 3.5 to 5 feet and should live around 20 years with proper care. Corn snakes are also commonly called red rat snakes and are known scientifically as Pantheropis Guttatus. Until recently, they were named Elaphe Guttata, and many breeders/hobbyists still use the Elaphe name.
Housing A hatchling corn snake can be comfortably housed in a standard 10gl aquarium, or other similarly sized container. This should be sufficient for the first year or two, but once the snake begins reaching adult size, a minimum size of a 20gl long aquarium (or equivalent) should be used. Floor space is more important than height for corn snakes, but they are very good climbers, so you can provide both if you wish. Whatever housing you decide for your corn snake, the most important thing to keep in mind is they are escape artists. You must make sure that the viv is very secure and there are no gaps. Hatchling corn snakes can squeeze out of some surprisingly small openings, so extra care is needed while your snake is small. Larger snakes can push their way out of vivs that are not tightly secured, so you must keep that in mind as well.
Substrate There are many different substrate options you can safely use in your snake’s viv. You should stay away from anything pine or cedar based, as these can cause respitory problems. One of the most common substrates is aspen shavings. If you use aspen or another type of forest floor type bedding, you will need to spot clean on a regular basis, scooping out the soiled areas, and do a complete change and cleaning once a month or so. You can also use reptile carpet (astro-turf), cut to size. This is another common option as it can be easily cleaned and does not produce dust like some types of aspen or forest floor type bedding. If using reptile carpet, the best thing is to have at least 2 pieces cut to size so you can swap them out for cleaning. Paper towels or newspaper can also be used.
Heat - Humidity Corn snakes do not have rigid heat or humidity requirements, but you can take some steps to make them more comfortable. Your snake’s viv should have a warm and a cold side. The warm side should be kept in the low to mid 80’s and the cool side in the 70’s. This will allow the snake to self regulate its temperature based on its needs. The best way to heat the viv is to use a UTH (under tank heater) with a thermometer and a rheostat. The thermometer you use should have a probe that you can place inside the viv, on top of where the heat pad is. This provides the most accurate temperature, as you want to measure the temps on the warm spot, and not the air above it. For the most part, corn snakes do not need any added humidity, but it is a good idea to spray the viv down lightly while your snake is in blue, or shed phase. This will help to ensure that your snake has good, clean sheds. You can tell when your snake is entering its blue phase by the glossing of the eyes and sometimes you will notice a slight change in the body color as well. The blue phase can last up to a week or so.
Feeding Corn snakes are carnivorous and should be fed mice or rats of appropriate size. It is preferable to buy frozen, and thaw out as needed. This is safer for your snake, as older mice/rats can do a lot of damage to a snake. It is also a good idea to feed your snake in a separate container. A hatchling to yearling corn snake should be fed one appropriate sized meal item every 5–7 days. The general rule of thumb in determining meal size is 1.5x the width of the snake. If you are unsure if your snake is ready for a larger item, you can feed 2 smaller items for a couple feedings to be sure. After your snake has eaten, you should not disturb it (other than to return it home) for at least 48 hours. If, after 48 hours, there is still a noticeable lump from its last meal, then the best thing is to wait another 24 hours before handling. Digesting is a stressful time for a snake’s body, so it’s best to just let them be during this time. If you can still see a noticeable lump after 72 hours, then you are likely feeding an item that is too large and your snake could end up regurging or getting sick. Undigested food in a snake’s stomach can actually start to go bad, so just something to keep in mind. If your snake does end up regurging a meal, you should wait 10 days before trying to feed again. Regurges are not common, and an isolated regurge is not usually any indication of a health issue. Repeated regurges should be taken seriously, however, and a trip to the vet would be a good idea. As your snake grows and you are increasing meal sizes, you can spread out feeding intervals. Generally, a yearling should be fed 7–10 days apart, and adults 10–14 days, but you can use your judgment and go with what seems to work best for your snake, as they are all different and all grow at different rates.
This care sheet was provided by Duff, a member here. It also can be seen at this link (his website): http://savagecorns.com/corncare.htm
